Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

I don’t know about you, but ever since I was a kid, I’ve found insects and butterflies fascinating. Their intricate details, intriguing behavior and amazing diversity are enthralling. There are such vast numbers of insects across the globe, somewhere between 6 and 10 million according to Wikipedia. So wherever you are in the world, you’ll have access to a huge variety of insects, butterflies, dragonflies and everything in between. There’s really no excuse for not grabbing your camera and capturing them in all their beauty.

It’s important to know when your subjects are likely to be out and about, there’s no point trawling through gardens in the winter as you’ll be very unlikely to find anything of much interest. Insects are cold-blooded, and therefore are less likely to be out and about once the temperature has dropped, so head out in the spring and summer months.

If you have one, use a macro lens, this will simply give you the best chance of zooming in nice and close to the subject and getting the shot you want. If you don’t have access to a macro lens, then try using a telephoto or any zoom lens or selecting macro mode on your camera.

To start with, I recommend you work handheld without the burden of a tripod and aim to capture insects whilst they are resting or feeding, and to minimize handshake use a minimum shutter speed of 1/125. I prefer to use available light for a more natural feel to the shots rather than using any fill flash or flashgun bursts.

Don’t overdo it with depth of field, start out with something around f/11 to ensure your subject is clearly captured and then as you gain more experience and understanding, you can start playing around with shallower depths of field and focusing in on the insect to isolate it from it’s surroundings, ensuring you have a nice smooth background.

Start out with auto focus and use single point focus, this will ensure that you capture the subject in focus, but as your work becomes more advanced, you’ll find that using manual focus is actually more beneficial, and allows you to focus in on the insect to a greater degree and gives you the freedom to be more creative.

It’s essential that you have your camera settings ready before you start shooting, because as soon as you find a potential subject, you need to work quickly, these little guys don’t hang around for long and are very good at adapting to their environments, so you have to take your chances and you’ll have no time to fiddle!

To begin with, shoot at the most appropriate angle to you. You’ll be lucky when you start out to even find the insects amongst the foliage, so don’t worry too much about how you frame your subject. Just get the shot, but one preference is to shoot from the front of the insect, but at an angle at which you can see the body. This way, you can shoot at eye level and really make that connection with the insects eyes.

When working with butterflies, the best times to shoot are early morning and late afternoon as they bask in the sun to keep warm. They don’t open their wings for long, so if you do see one showcasing it’s stunning wing patters, take your chance and snap away, in this instance, composition comes second to actually getting the shot.

One of the best pieces of advice I’ve received is to avoid casting a shadow over your subject. Whether that’s a butterfly or any type of insect, as they it will cause them to move to find sunlight. It’s important to work quickly and cautiously so as to get the shot you want without disrupting the environment that you’re working in.

For inspiration, check out the amazing work of Stephen Dalton.

View the original article here

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

I don’t know about you, but ever since I was a kid, I’ve found insects and butterflies fascinating. Their intricate details, intriguing behavior and amazing diversity are enthralling. There are such vast numbers of insects across the globe, somewhere between 6 and 10 million according to Wikipedia. So wherever you are in the world, you’ll have access to a huge variety of insects, butterflies, dragonflies and everything in between. There’s really no excuse for not grabbing your camera and capturing them in all their beauty.

It’s important to know when your subjects are likely to be out and about, there’s no point trawling through gardens in the winter as you’ll be very unlikely to find anything of much interest. Insects are cold-blooded, and therefore are less likely to be out and about once the temperature has dropped, so head out in the spring and summer months.

If you have one, use a macro lens, this will simply give you the best chance of zooming in nice and close to the subject and getting the shot you want. If you don’t have access to a macro lens, then try using a telephoto or any zoom lens or selecting macro mode on your camera.

To start with, I recommend you work handheld without the burden of a tripod and aim to capture insects whilst they are resting or feeding, and to minimize handshake use a minimum shutter speed of 1/125. I prefer to use available light for a more natural feel to the shots rather than using any fill flash or flashgun bursts.

Don’t overdo it with depth of field, start out with something around f/11 to ensure your subject is clearly captured and then as you gain more experience and understanding, you can start playing around with shallower depths of field and focusing in on the insect to isolate it from it’s surroundings, ensuring you have a nice smooth background.

Start out with auto focus and use single point focus, this will ensure that you capture the subject in focus, but as your work becomes more advanced, you’ll find that using manual focus is actually more beneficial, and allows you to focus in on the insect to a greater degree and gives you the freedom to be more creative.

It’s essential that you have your camera settings ready before you start shooting, because as soon as you find a potential subject, you need to work quickly, these little guys don’t hang around for long and are very good at adapting to their environments, so you have to take your chances and you’ll have no time to fiddle!

To begin with, shoot at the most appropriate angle to you. You’ll be lucky when you start out to even find the insects amongst the foliage, so don’t worry too much about how you frame your subject. Just get the shot, but one preference is to shoot from the front of the insect, but at an angle at which you can see the body. This way, you can shoot at eye level and really make that connection with the insects eyes.

When working with butterflies, the best times to shoot are early morning and late afternoon as they bask in the sun to keep warm. They don’t open their wings for long, so if you do see one showcasing it’s stunning wing patters, take your chance and snap away, in this instance, composition comes second to actually getting the shot.

One of the best pieces of advice I’ve received is to avoid casting a shadow over your subject. Whether that’s a butterfly or any type of insect, as they it will cause them to move to find sunlight. It’s important to work quickly and cautiously so as to get the shot you want without disrupting the environment that you’re working in.

For inspiration, check out the amazing work of Stephen Dalton.

View the original article here

Quick Tip: 5 Tips for Getting Great “Bokeh” Shots

Quick Tip: 5 Tips for Getting Great “Bokeh” Shots

I’m sure you’ve seen those eye catching blurry light shots online and many of you have wondered how best to achieve the soft bokeh effect, well if that’s you, then you’re in the right place, as in this quick tip we’ll look to explain what bokeh is and how you can go about achieving it yourself.

Increasingly in recent years, the use of the term “bokeh” has evolved somewhat from its original meaning. Bokeh is now commonly used to refer to blurred lights or shapes within an image, where as, the term more accurately describes the aesthetic quality of the out-of-focus area of a photograph. Therefore, it is possible to have ‘good’ or ‘bad’ bokeh, (although that is purely subjective), but in essence, it’s all about the area of an image that falls outside the depth-of-field.

The attraction of bokeh comes when the aperture settings from the shot result in an attractive portrayal of the light within that area of the image, creating soft circular patterns of light, which is what we’ll actively be trying to achieve within this quick tip!

To begin with, you’ll need to get to grips with a few camera settings. For creating “bokeh,” you’ll need a large aperture and a short focal distance. It’s best to set your camera to Aperture Priority mode, this will allow you to dictate the exposure of the image based upon the selected aperture, which will need to be large in order to let lots of light in.

Depending on the capabilities of your camera and the lens you are using, select a low f-number, anything from f/1.8 up to f/4 or even /f5.6 will do, but the lower the better. This large aperture will also ensure that you have a nice shallow depth of field.

The next step is to judge the depth-of-field in order to achieve the blurred effect. Be sure to leave plenty of distance between yourself and the light source and ensure that you have manual focus selected on your camera. To give yourself the best chance of achieving good bokeh, you want to have the subject as close to the lens as possible. If you focusing on an object that is extremely close to the camera, this will ensure that the lights in the background are nicely blurred.

Once you’ve mastered all the technicalities, you can start using bokeh in your everyday photographic work. Try using bokeh in the background of an image that has an alternative focal point in the foreground, such as a person or a still life subject.

Again, try and get as much distance as possible between your foreground subject and the lights in the background. Something else that works quite nicely is to use an object to form a silhouette in front of your lights, as you would with a foreground object. The strong black shape will contrast well with the soft highlights in the background.

So now it’s your turn, all that’s required is your DSLR and a collection of small light sources. Christmas tree lights (I know you’ve only just packed them away) work great. Street lights off in the distance will also produce what you’re looking for.

Give yourself time and space to practice getting the camera settings correct and then once you feel ready, you can head out and start putting it into practice in your work. As long as it isn’t overdone, it can be used effectively to create a really nice softness and depth within an image without attracting too much attention. It can really give your images a boost!

View the original article here