Medium Format Photography

Medium format cameras are often seen as the preserve of professional photographers. Just because you don’t use one doesn’t mean that you will never get to sell a photograph or be commissioned for work. The fact is though that there remains something extremely impressive about photographs taken by medium format cameras that smaller SLRs camera cannot match.

It is all down to the size of the image that they produce. The image produced by a 35mm camera is 24x36mm. An image taken with a 6×4.5cm medium format camera is 42×55.1mm. That is about 2.7 times larger. Obviously the difference in image size produced by larger medium format cameras is even more pronounced.

Using this larger format cameras therefore give you two distinct advantages over 35mm photography. There is no doubt here that size really does matter. When a picture editor looks at an image on a light box the larger image looks far more impressive. The second advantage is that when the image is blown up and printed a shot taken using one will be sharper and less grainy, providing a final print of a much higher quality.

Different Formats Found on Medium Format Cameras.
The 6×4.5cm format is usually seen as the entry level camera. It is basically the next size up from 35mm and therefore has more similarities in handling than the larger models. The clearest advantages for selecting this size are:

1. They are cheaper to buy than their bigger brothers are.
2. They can still be used hand held.
3. They are lighter and can therefore be transported easier.
4. They use less film and are therefore more economical to run.

Models to look out for in this range are the Bronica ETRSi, Mamiya 645E, Pentax 645N, Mamiya 645AFD and the Hasselblad H1.

The next step up for medium format cameras is to the 6x6cm format. It really does take square photographs. This is something that you will find very different from 35mm and can take some getting used to. Photographs are often cropped afterwards to give the more familiar rectangle. This format is probably most popular with wedding and portrait photographers. If you don’t find the idea of square prints attractive then this isn’t the format for you as once you crop the picture down you have little or no advantage over 6×4.5cm medium format cameras.

Models to look out for in this range are the Bronica SQ-B and SQ-Ai, Hasselblad 501cm and 503cw, plus the Rolleiflex 6001. You will also find it more expensive to buy in this range compared to the 6×4.5cm.

Next in line are the 6x7cm medium format cameras. In terms of image size and quality this is a very significant step up from 35mm cameras. It will not only produce and image 4.5 times greater than a 35mm camera, but more than one and a half times bigger than a 6×4.5cm camera. If you are looking to produce prints greater than 10x8in then these medium format cameras have a clear advantage over the smaller ones. The biggest disadvantage is pretty obviously too. They are very heavy cameras and are therefore mainly confined to the studio. That is not to say that only studio photographers use these medium format cameras as they are very popular with landscape photographers owing to their clear, large images. Just be aware that it can be very hard work lugging them around.

Models to look out for in this range are the Pentax 67II, Mamiya 7 II and the Mamiya RZ67 Pro II

If you are looking for a route into medium format cameras then it is often advisable to buy as little as you need to start with before adding to the system as your budget allows. The second hand market for medium format cameras is also a good place to look. Be careful though some models have seen plenty of action and inspect each model closely for signs of wear and tear.

Medium Format Cameras

Medium Format Photography

Medium format cameras are often seen as the preserve of professional photographers. Just because you don’t use one doesn’t mean that you will never get to sell a photograph or be commissioned for work. The fact is though that there remains something extremely impressive about photographs taken by medium format cameras that smaller SLRs camera cannot match.

It is all down to the size of the image that they produce. The image produced by a 35mm camera is 24x36mm. An image taken with a 6×4.5cm medium format camera is 42×55.1mm. That is about 2.7 times larger. Obviously the difference in image size produced by larger medium format cameras is even more pronounced.

Using this larger format cameras therefore give you two distinct advantages over 35mm photography. There is no doubt here that size really does matter. When a picture editor looks at an image on a light box the larger image looks far more impressive. The second advantage is that when the image is blown up and printed a shot taken using one will be sharper and less grainy, providing a final print of a much higher quality.

Different Formats Found on Medium Format Cameras.
The 6×4.5cm format is usually seen as the entry level camera. It is basically the next size up from 35mm and therefore has more similarities in handling than the larger models. The clearest advantages for selecting this size are:

1. They are cheaper to buy than their bigger brothers are.
2. They can still be used hand held.
3. They are lighter and can therefore be transported easier.
4. They use less film and are therefore more economical to run.

Models to look out for in this range are the Bronica ETRSi, Mamiya 645E, Pentax 645N, Mamiya 645AFD and the Hasselblad H1.

The next step up for medium format cameras is to the 6x6cm format. It really does take square photographs. This is something that you will find very different from 35mm and can take some getting used to. Photographs are often cropped afterwards to give the more familiar rectangle. This format is probably most popular with wedding and portrait photographers. If you don’t find the idea of square prints attractive then this isn’t the format for you as once you crop the picture down you have little or no advantage over 6×4.5cm medium format cameras.

Models to look out for in this range are the Bronica SQ-B and SQ-Ai, Hasselblad 501cm and 503cw, plus the Rolleiflex 6001. You will also find it more expensive to buy in this range compared to the 6×4.5cm.

Next in line are the 6x7cm medium format cameras. In terms of image size and quality this is a very significant step up from 35mm cameras. It will not only produce and image 4.5 times greater than a 35mm camera, but more than one and a half times bigger than a 6×4.5cm camera. If you are looking to produce prints greater than 10x8in then these medium format cameras have a clear advantage over the smaller ones. The biggest disadvantage is pretty obviously too. They are very heavy cameras and are therefore mainly confined to the studio. That is not to say that only studio photographers use these medium format cameras as they are very popular with landscape photographers owing to their clear, large images. Just be aware that it can be very hard work lugging them around.

Models to look out for in this range are the Pentax 67II, Mamiya 7 II and the Mamiya RZ67 Pro II

If you are looking for a route into medium format cameras then it is often advisable to buy as little as you need to start with before adding to the system as your budget allows. The second hand market for medium format cameras is also a good place to look. Be careful though some models have seen plenty of action and inspect each model closely for signs of wear and tear.

Medium Format Cameras

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

I don’t know about you, but ever since I was a kid, I’ve found insects and butterflies fascinating. Their intricate details, intriguing behavior and amazing diversity are enthralling. There are such vast numbers of insects across the globe, somewhere between 6 and 10 million according to Wikipedia. So wherever you are in the world, you’ll have access to a huge variety of insects, butterflies, dragonflies and everything in between. There’s really no excuse for not grabbing your camera and capturing them in all their beauty.

It’s important to know when your subjects are likely to be out and about, there’s no point trawling through gardens in the winter as you’ll be very unlikely to find anything of much interest. Insects are cold-blooded, and therefore are less likely to be out and about once the temperature has dropped, so head out in the spring and summer months.

If you have one, use a macro lens, this will simply give you the best chance of zooming in nice and close to the subject and getting the shot you want. If you don’t have access to a macro lens, then try using a telephoto or any zoom lens or selecting macro mode on your camera.

To start with, I recommend you work handheld without the burden of a tripod and aim to capture insects whilst they are resting or feeding, and to minimize handshake use a minimum shutter speed of 1/125. I prefer to use available light for a more natural feel to the shots rather than using any fill flash or flashgun bursts.

Don’t overdo it with depth of field, start out with something around f/11 to ensure your subject is clearly captured and then as you gain more experience and understanding, you can start playing around with shallower depths of field and focusing in on the insect to isolate it from it’s surroundings, ensuring you have a nice smooth background.

Start out with auto focus and use single point focus, this will ensure that you capture the subject in focus, but as your work becomes more advanced, you’ll find that using manual focus is actually more beneficial, and allows you to focus in on the insect to a greater degree and gives you the freedom to be more creative.

It’s essential that you have your camera settings ready before you start shooting, because as soon as you find a potential subject, you need to work quickly, these little guys don’t hang around for long and are very good at adapting to their environments, so you have to take your chances and you’ll have no time to fiddle!

To begin with, shoot at the most appropriate angle to you. You’ll be lucky when you start out to even find the insects amongst the foliage, so don’t worry too much about how you frame your subject. Just get the shot, but one preference is to shoot from the front of the insect, but at an angle at which you can see the body. This way, you can shoot at eye level and really make that connection with the insects eyes.

When working with butterflies, the best times to shoot are early morning and late afternoon as they bask in the sun to keep warm. They don’t open their wings for long, so if you do see one showcasing it’s stunning wing patters, take your chance and snap away, in this instance, composition comes second to actually getting the shot.

One of the best pieces of advice I’ve received is to avoid casting a shadow over your subject. Whether that’s a butterfly or any type of insect, as they it will cause them to move to find sunlight. It’s important to work quickly and cautiously so as to get the shot you want without disrupting the environment that you’re working in.

For inspiration, check out the amazing work of Stephen Dalton.

View the original article here

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

I don’t know about you, but ever since I was a kid, I’ve found insects and butterflies fascinating. Their intricate details, intriguing behavior and amazing diversity are enthralling. There are such vast numbers of insects across the globe, somewhere between 6 and 10 million according to Wikipedia. So wherever you are in the world, you’ll have access to a huge variety of insects, butterflies, dragonflies and everything in between. There’s really no excuse for not grabbing your camera and capturing them in all their beauty.

It’s important to know when your subjects are likely to be out and about, there’s no point trawling through gardens in the winter as you’ll be very unlikely to find anything of much interest. Insects are cold-blooded, and therefore are less likely to be out and about once the temperature has dropped, so head out in the spring and summer months.

If you have one, use a macro lens, this will simply give you the best chance of zooming in nice and close to the subject and getting the shot you want. If you don’t have access to a macro lens, then try using a telephoto or any zoom lens or selecting macro mode on your camera.

To start with, I recommend you work handheld without the burden of a tripod and aim to capture insects whilst they are resting or feeding, and to minimize handshake use a minimum shutter speed of 1/125. I prefer to use available light for a more natural feel to the shots rather than using any fill flash or flashgun bursts.

Don’t overdo it with depth of field, start out with something around f/11 to ensure your subject is clearly captured and then as you gain more experience and understanding, you can start playing around with shallower depths of field and focusing in on the insect to isolate it from it’s surroundings, ensuring you have a nice smooth background.

Start out with auto focus and use single point focus, this will ensure that you capture the subject in focus, but as your work becomes more advanced, you’ll find that using manual focus is actually more beneficial, and allows you to focus in on the insect to a greater degree and gives you the freedom to be more creative.

It’s essential that you have your camera settings ready before you start shooting, because as soon as you find a potential subject, you need to work quickly, these little guys don’t hang around for long and are very good at adapting to their environments, so you have to take your chances and you’ll have no time to fiddle!

To begin with, shoot at the most appropriate angle to you. You’ll be lucky when you start out to even find the insects amongst the foliage, so don’t worry too much about how you frame your subject. Just get the shot, but one preference is to shoot from the front of the insect, but at an angle at which you can see the body. This way, you can shoot at eye level and really make that connection with the insects eyes.

When working with butterflies, the best times to shoot are early morning and late afternoon as they bask in the sun to keep warm. They don’t open their wings for long, so if you do see one showcasing it’s stunning wing patters, take your chance and snap away, in this instance, composition comes second to actually getting the shot.

One of the best pieces of advice I’ve received is to avoid casting a shadow over your subject. Whether that’s a butterfly or any type of insect, as they it will cause them to move to find sunlight. It’s important to work quickly and cautiously so as to get the shot you want without disrupting the environment that you’re working in.

For inspiration, check out the amazing work of Stephen Dalton.

View the original article here

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

Quick Tip: How to Photograph Insects & Butterflies

I don’t know about you, but ever since I was a kid, I’ve found insects and butterflies fascinating. Their intricate details, intriguing behavior and amazing diversity are enthralling. There are such vast numbers of insects across the globe, somewhere between 6 and 10 million according to Wikipedia. So wherever you are in the world, you’ll have access to a huge variety of insects, butterflies, dragonflies and everything in between. There’s really no excuse for not grabbing your camera and capturing them in all their beauty.

It’s important to know when your subjects are likely to be out and about, there’s no point trawling through gardens in the winter as you’ll be very unlikely to find anything of much interest. Insects are cold-blooded, and therefore are less likely to be out and about once the temperature has dropped, so head out in the spring and summer months.

If you have one, use a macro lens, this will simply give you the best chance of zooming in nice and close to the subject and getting the shot you want. If you don’t have access to a macro lens, then try using a telephoto or any zoom lens or selecting macro mode on your camera.

To start with, I recommend you work handheld without the burden of a tripod and aim to capture insects whilst they are resting or feeding, and to minimize handshake use a minimum shutter speed of 1/125. I prefer to use available light for a more natural feel to the shots rather than using any fill flash or flashgun bursts.

Don’t overdo it with depth of field, start out with something around f/11 to ensure your subject is clearly captured and then as you gain more experience and understanding, you can start playing around with shallower depths of field and focusing in on the insect to isolate it from it’s surroundings, ensuring you have a nice smooth background.

Start out with auto focus and use single point focus, this will ensure that you capture the subject in focus, but as your work becomes more advanced, you’ll find that using manual focus is actually more beneficial, and allows you to focus in on the insect to a greater degree and gives you the freedom to be more creative.

It’s essential that you have your camera settings ready before you start shooting, because as soon as you find a potential subject, you need to work quickly, these little guys don’t hang around for long and are very good at adapting to their environments, so you have to take your chances and you’ll have no time to fiddle!

To begin with, shoot at the most appropriate angle to you. You’ll be lucky when you start out to even find the insects amongst the foliage, so don’t worry too much about how you frame your subject. Just get the shot, but one preference is to shoot from the front of the insect, but at an angle at which you can see the body. This way, you can shoot at eye level and really make that connection with the insects eyes.

When working with butterflies, the best times to shoot are early morning and late afternoon as they bask in the sun to keep warm. They don’t open their wings for long, so if you do see one showcasing it’s stunning wing patters, take your chance and snap away, in this instance, composition comes second to actually getting the shot.

One of the best pieces of advice I’ve received is to avoid casting a shadow over your subject. Whether that’s a butterfly or any type of insect, as they it will cause them to move to find sunlight. It’s important to work quickly and cautiously so as to get the shot you want without disrupting the environment that you’re working in.

For inspiration, check out the amazing work of Stephen Dalton.

View the original article here